You can modify some material by applying a force and giving it a good whack. Resonance. Put enough force on it, such as a strong magnetic field, and resonate it. The force should modify it to some degree, and transfer some of that force through it.
Try this. Start a magnetic flow in your backyard. Stick a 1 inch mild steel rod halfway in the ground. Stick another one a few feet away due north or south of it. Use a coil or damp earth and electricity to magnetize them. North with the north pole above ground, and the south pole with the south pole above. The big thing is to get a flow going. A loop. Make it strong enough to deflect a compass needle a few feet away.
Stand in a line between them with a stone or piece of metal that will resonate when you tap it. See if you feel anything. If you do, you will understand how some things can be transferred via EM.
We don't necessarily want to build elements, just move them with the least strain. Maybe even figure out a way off of this planet. For myself, I will leave the element building and the looking out for the planet to God, and if he wants me to do something he will let me know in no uncertain terms. I try not to second guess what the old boy wants. I'm just a peon in the scheme of things.
In a magnet there is an excess of flux. It will flow, just like electricity to the path of least resistance to achieve equilibrium. This is how things are joined.
Ed spoke of sending magnets out in straight streams. He also said they travel opposite to each other in a spiral. You had to have both. This was the logic he developed to explain phenomenon he observed.
Take a rock or piece of concrete and hang it from a string. Maybe fishing line and swivels. Hang it so the longest portion is horizontal so you will get leverage on the horizontal. First it will turn for a while. For some reason it seemed to turn 6 or 7 times before settling down if on a solid string when I did it.
Take a bar magnet or a stack of ceramic disk magnets and approach one of the ends of the rock very slowly. When you get a certain distance from it you will notice that it will start to twist toward the magnet. If you wet the rock, you will see that it will react from a greater distance.
I can't say for sure if it is a reaction to a straight stream of magnets, as Ed said, or it is because of the excess of flux expanded in the air that starts to act on the EM within the rock, which then causes it to turn. The longer you hold it, the stronger the link gets up to a point. You can actually start to rock the rock a bit like a pendulum.
This is where Ed came up with gravity being magnets escaping from the earth hitting other magnets in the way. Realize it is not just one loop. It is one strong loop that makes gazillions of other smaller loops more or less get in line. It polarizes them. It changes the spin direction of individual particles that aren't strong enough to resist. It is the resistance of particles, meaning their orientation and spin that keeps an object from getting sucked into another and becoming something else altogether.
Picture a bubble being blown up sucking in everything around it, but the skin of the bubble following the path of least resistance, which is matter with spin similar to its. As it sucks up all this stuff, the energy of the individual parts expand the bubble even more. Motion is what keeps everything from collapsing into a singularity.
The Big Bang was the original bubble. For our neck of the woods. Galaxies, etc make their own bubbles within that.
In the neighborhood, we have the galactic center working on the sun and us, and the sun working on us. And us working against them to maintain our selves.
The forces are simple. It is the noise and confusion we emerge in that makes them so difficult to see and apply. Been that way since the tower of Babel. Waiting for the time until re are ready and responsible.
Eds "magnets" are the effects of what we call gravity. Not particles, but knots of a dream.
There is a well on the property. You don't have to go far for water in south Florida. We had a 20 foot well when I was a kid. The coral acts as an aquifer.
The ever blooming plants are succulents. Crown of thorns, maybe. They are planted in the rock. Plenty of moisture. But there is something to the energy. I posted before about how a tree grew branches only along the wall. BTW, you may try that with your garden plants. Put a ring of stones around them.
We are standing on a huge current carrying conductor. Create a difference of potential pocket in it and see what happens. Using a piezoelectric material and gravity may provide the lever you are looking for. Think out of the box a bit.
Take a megger and do some measuring in the ground and notice the polarities. Stick a magnetized pole in the ground and then measure again.
Grab some marbles or beads or some such and some glue. Look at the marbles as representations of infinite points on a plane, not as solid objects. Just representations. On a table, push them together as close as you can where one will be completely enclosed. Notice a particular geometric arrangement they make. It will consist of seven marbles. Now glue them together. Take that and glue marbles around the center marble in the same pattern. That plane will not be at right angles to the first one. Now look real close at the 3 dimensional form you just made.
Ed did not consider EM and gravity as separate forces as commonly thought. Consider gravity as the basic bipolar force of something that was blown apart wanting to come back together, or the force that is pushing things back together.
Look at that form. Theoretically, that should be the smallest form that matter can be compacted into. Notice there will be "empty spaces".
Gravity works in straight lines. The gravitational force between two objects is greatest when their two longest axii are facing each other. Gravity on this planet is not something derived from the middle. It is the line of matter directly below you running to the other side of the planet and out into the universe.
Look at the properties of that form you made and figure how gravity and EM can be different.
Motion, primarily of the spinning type, is what produces EM. The warping of that gravitational force by motion is what EM is.
Actually, it gets real complicated understanding the dynamics of all that movement, but that is it in a nutshell. Maybe a younger and less damaged brain can grasp it and go way beyond what Ed just touched upon.
Using the same logic, you will also see that a tetrahedron is the smallest ANY "solid" thing can be. Occupies the least volume of any 3 dimensional object. You can always put a tetrahedron inside a sphere.
Balance a log on a fulcrum. Change the mass on one side and you change the balance because you are changing the gravitational attraction of the pieces on either side of the fulcrum. The fulcrum is a resistance to the acceleration of the gravitational force.
Take that same log out in the sunshine. Practically speaking, both sides of the log are getting bombarded by the same amount of light energy. Shade one side of the log. There should be a change in the balance due to the reduction of rays impacting one side.
Make the fulcrum an axle, like on a bicycle wheel. Shade one side and the light should push on one side, sending it downward. Which means it is overcoming gravity on the other side. The molecular bonding of the log is the transfer of the energy. Same as using it as a lever. Put that log so the circular motion is horizontal. Shade one side, but have a fin or something to catch the light at an angle that will move it sideways. Inertia is the only resistance to that motion. Other than friction of the bearing and air. With the light hitting the end of the log, meaning shading all of the log but a section at one end, you should get a mechanical advantage on the axle. This of course must have some effect down to the atomic level.
That is just a theoretical exercise. Can anyone enlarge or demonstrate why that principle can't be used to accomplish other things? Can that process be repetitive throughout nature?
With a balanced log or vanes, you have action and reaction. Fasten a lever to a shaft just on one side, and then any force, such as sunlight on the end of the lever, will exert a torque on that shaft. If that is not true, then none of physics is.
Inertia is what causes the heat. The resistance to the striking light thingy, which causes it to be redirected a bit within the material. Some of that energy will be transferred as infrared. The molecular bonding of the object will still react to the force of the strike. Depends how the light hits it. Billiard balls follow the same laws. Your leaning against boxcars is also an example.
The key is resistance, and the vectors the energy is redirected. More density, and more resistance. Heat is emitted as light, motion is redirected.
If you take two pieces of cardboard circles and cut one half of them on the diameters, then pushed them together you get that 4 pointed shape. A cross. Looking from the ends. Meaning the outside points where the two planes share the same spot. That is following the flow. The 6 sided view is looking perpendicular to the plane.
Make 2 intersecting grids in a hex pattern. Picture moving one plane along the other grid. Both of those planes have relative polarities. Negative and positive if you will. Or direction of motion. Or relative gravitational pull. Imagine that being the smallest of anything. What would you use to change the relative positions? You would change one of the planes values. Make the perpendicular plane scoot along trying to seek equilibrium. It is the right angle relationship of forces. Electrical, magnetic, work or motion. They work at right angles.
Kind of esoteric and vague,
I did some experiments 20 years ago that peaked my interest… I do not understand exactly what I did, but I do know I curled a magnetic flux and setup some sort of resonant circuit using some rather basic equipment. One of the effects was to create some sort of field that would cause an ammeter to peg backwards even when the leads were reversed. I also witnessed a coil of wire attempt to overcome gravity. In fact it did to a degree. It was done by oscillating EM in a closed system.
About the 6 pointed star. There is a significance to that geometric form. It is a template for forces, and how to manipulate objects.
Had a science teacher in 8th grade that had all these neat little science experiments and thingies.
One of them was something called a radiometer. It was a plastic bubble with flags painted black on one side and white on the other on a stand. Don't know if it was in a vacuum. Didn't seem that high a quality.
Anyhow, when you shined a light on it, it would spin. Take it near the sunlight and it would spin like crazy. Seems the "particles" of sunlight would hit the white side with enough force to make it spin. It was not a trick. It was the real thing.
Glue those marbles together and look at them for a while. That is an abstract, intellectual exercise. Take a small pail with a rope handle or 12 oz coffee mug suspended by a loop of parachute cord over a foot long and walk down the street swinging and twirling it to get a feel for gravity, centrifugal force, acceleration, etc.
Start with 18 ga if you have it. You can do most anything, but the thicker the gauge the more current, less windings, and less terminations. This is just a starting point. Experiment to get the best combo of material and current flow.
I used 18 ga and a 3' x 1" dia mild steel rod you get at the hardware store, but the principles should be the same.
Get a piece of copper pipe with an inside diameter slightly larger than the outside diameter of your rod. For a start, let's make the coil about a foot long, maybe even shorter. Proportions are more important than anything, and I didn't have the chance to refine mine, but this should work.
Take masonite, plastic or what ever you can make work, and make a spool out of the copper pipe with that material for the ends. Make the end's diameter a little over 3 times the diameter of the copper pipe. Cut a slot in each end all the way down to the copper pipe. You will then start winding the wire on the spool you just made in a clockwise direction. Looking at the spool in front of you, take the end of your wire and put it through the left slot with 2-3 inches sticking out. Holding the wire with tension, turn the spool so the top is going away from you. This will be righthand twist. Keep the wire under tension and don't be sloppy in winding. Make sure each coil is tight against the proceeding coil. Keep winding until you get as far as you can on the right side, then slip the wire through the right side slot and cut off 2-3 inches away. Hook you wires so they don't pull back and that coil unwinds.
Go back to the left and do it again. Try to keep the next layer directly on top of the bottom layer. Keep adding these individual layers until the radius is equal to the diameter of the pole you are going to use. Once you get done, strip the ends of the wires and join them together on both ends. You might add a few inches of large piece of wire to make your connection to. You can bugnut it, just make sure everything is tight.
You now have a spool of wire you can slip over the rod or pipe you use. Start with a solid rod.
I layered it like that following Ed's principle about the spiraling. I figured if everything started the same place, the it should phase better. Usually they wrap back and forth, which will give some resistance. There will be some difference due to the different radii and the speed of light. It takes someone with more math skill than me to figure that out. I posted earlier about using an \ across a line as a visual aid in figuring out bipolar force relationships. You can use that following the wire to see how I came up with this config.
Also, if you have it available, you can make a large iron or steel washer to put on one end outside the spool end, and the same or a tinny fraction larger in diameter. You can then put a iron or steel sleeve over the outside connected to the washer. This is to capture the magnetic field from the outside of the coil and channel it to the rod. You don't want any gaps. You have to check the magnetic polarity of the coil, the sleeve, and the rod before you put that all together. The idea is to reinforce the field the current creates. You can skip it for now.
My coil was about 8 inches, and the rod was 3 foot. Again, I have an intuition that working in thirds is about the best place to start when putting this together.
Get you a piece of ground somewhere. I do suggest somewhere away from your house. Out in a field would be good.
In the beginning, mark the field so that you have geometric north and magnetic north identified. Stick sticks in the ground.
On the north end of this area, push the rod into the ground one third of its length. Slip the coil over it and let it sit on the ground.
You will have no resistance in this coil, so you had best put a load resistor on it. With the gear you have you may also overload it and drive it into hysteresis prematurely. Hysteresis is what it is all about. Put a resistor and keep it to just a few amps in the beginning. A large capacity diode would be a big aid. It will block the current from falling back, which then erases what you tried to do. Put the juice to it for a few moments. You don't want it to smoke. Then push the rod down so it is halfway in the dirt. You can knock it down and pull it up before you begin to make it easier.
If you did it right, you will have magnetic pole, check it with a compass. Depending on the way you fed current, it can be a north or south pole. Snce it is the north side let's make it north. If I recall, that means positive side of coil will be upside.
You can leave the pole there for a few days, and see if you still have a magnetic pole in the ground after you remove it. Actually, you can try it right away. Experiment. Try a few different poles at differnt places and see what happens. Just make sure they are some distance from each other. Many yards at least.
My thought when I started doing this was to make a pole come out of the ground, then use magnetic material to capture the natural flow, and wrap it around that pole. That was a big number 6 with the pole between the loop and the flag using rocks, pieces of metal, and whatevr was at hand. Then it seemed to take on a life of its own after a fashion.
The idea is balance,harmonics, and compression. The spiral compresses to the middle. But there are differences in relative strengths, and norths become relative souths, etc. You can capture and channel the natural flow and make it a pole. The coil is a shortcut. Play with it. Experiment.
If you need to erase, you can try reversing the coil on the rod to the same degree. The damper the soil, the more anomalies you will get. If that doesn't work, get a few rods, stick one in the ground as deep as the first rod to the east and south of the field. Put another the same way to the west and south at the same height. Then, in the middle of the line betwen the two, put a rod in so that the angle betwen the top of it and the tops of the other ends makes a 52 degree angle. During the morning. Leave it up until mid afternoon. Do not smoke dope. Do not be suffering from any illness. It may be one of the most strenous things you have ever done when you start hammering those rods in.
Go with DC. Like I said, start with just a few amps. Put a load resistor in series. Light bulbs in series and parallel will give you what you want. The coil will only take so many amps, and too much will cause hysteresis, so you have to experiment to see what it can handle. This is just a start. Once you start experimenting you will see what and how it works. Use a magnetized welding rod as a compass and see how far away it will deflect the N seeking pole when magnetic north of it. Will give you an idea of relative strength. I am sure some can figure the gauss of it, but I can't. I sure wouldn't pay for a gauss meter until you get real serious into something like that.
Keep in mind balance. Try to keep the rods in and out of the ground the same amount. I don't know what kind of land you are on. How resistant it is to magnetic flow. You may look to use long rods to really tap in deep. More than a couple of feet. Getting a strong flow started should help to draw it up. Like tapping for water. That is why it may take a few days to really get going. Should get a reading right away, but the sustaining may take a few days.
Of course, you never know what anomalous magnetic readings will attract. Have a remote controlled camera? Check your body for unusual scars or wounds before starting. Gives you a reference point for later. Just in case.
After you make the coil put it on the rod and see how magnetic it gets. Should be a pretty strong magnet with a few amps running through it. I used 120v rectified AC. Use a battery if you have it. Use diodes in series to limit kickback when you disconnect. You can arrange the diodes with a cap to run the collapsing current back thru in the right direction. Maybe I will remember how to do that in a little while.
If you have an analog VOM, put it on micro ohms, and hold the probes in both hands. It will probably be the lowest setting, but look and see if you can get the needle to move while holding the leads, and if so, see if it goes backwards, then switch leads and see if it jumps forward. I didn't check this before I started my experiment. After I did I noticed the needle would peg backwards a few micro ohms no matter which way I held it. Check polarity from a hand to your tongue, also. Will give a reference point before you start. I am still puzzled by the backward jump. Only thing I can figure is a charged field that somehow made it jump through the coil of the meter. It was a good meter. A Simpson 260-7. Still have it. This was in the house 30-40 feet from where I put that thing in the backyard.
If and when you get something cranked up, and it has been there for a while, do not discount the possibility of hazardous voltage buildups in some of the materials. If you make a structure, it would be good to approach it and put a neon voltage tester on it before touching anything. If you are dealing with stone and other things that may naturally be an insulator, you may wind up with a charge on one and a ground on another. Magnetically induced static charges. You should be having a magnetic flow through these materials, any vibration or change in that flow can induce a charge. Don't take anything for granted. Before you touch anything, read between all points.
If you get these things fired up, let us know where in the country you reside so that we can scan the news for alien abductions, vaporized human beings, or anything u Stick the rod in almost halfway, put the coil on it so it is halfway down the rod, energize, then push the rod in to halfway. That may not be so necessary. Just try to maintain that halfway relationship. Make the surface the middle of the magnet. You can experiment with raising later.
Test as I wrote a little bit ago with it out of the ground. Do be careful when applying the current that the rod is secure in the middle of the coil. Don't want any unforseen freak accidents and the rod shooting someone. :-) Test for the north pole and make sure that it is the topmost when doing it in the field. Just make sure you keep the connections the same polarity. :-)
Get one started that will stand by itself. If it doesn't, put the 6 loop about it. From there you can try extending the field and connecting to another pole you make, maybe oppositely charged, to create a flux path that comes out of one pole, then goes back down the other pole and returns underground to the first. The ground should be a better conductor than the air.
Let me do a rant.
Normal electricity is a weaker form of magnetic current. It is loops of flux bumping loops of flux. Relatively weak loops of flux. Conductors have a weak loop on the outside valence. It is akin to pulling a tight string against a tight string.
Running the flux along a path, and having it hit things deadon will produce different effects. This is where the material is getting hit by a spear, not a string. There is a flux density. Running in this fashion should expand or contract matter in the way. These spears of flux will try to thread their way through the matter instead of beating on it. Should also have a greater effect in aligning the material magnetically. This is what you may call full-strength magnetic current. I am thinking that vibration from gravity and mechanical forces would also induce some currents within the material. Like stone. If so, and I am fairly sure of it, it may set up resonant patterns in the stone aligned in a certain polarity. Meaning places on the stone may be positive, and some negative, and some nothing. Maybe rock salt or something that reacts to electrical charges may be used to find this pattern. You will have a lot more potentials running the flux through the material than running it across the material. Just gotta find them.
Full length conductor/generator. Electricity is conductor/resistance. Don't look for anything super powerful. This is low yield stuff. But just like batteries, things can be connected.
This is motion and pressure. Besides the plant things it can also be used to create heat. Not red hot, but maybe a low level that is higher than the air.
When I built mine I thought I felt a sensation of heat running just above the ground. Nothing scientific, but something I sensed. At least 3 degrees higher. This was after I put the 6 loop around it.
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Vibrations. A magnetic field running through the material. Stationary motion. Let the rest of the universe do your work for you.
That is what the walls are about. Conductors. North obelisk and Saturn obelisk poles. Saturn obelisk likely oscillator. Well, and rod in ground south of quarry perhaps south polar. Low yield, probably used for resonating to access something else. High magnetic signature would definitely attract attention of nearby AFB.
You are tapping the natural currents, which vary from place to place. You will be trying to learn how to manipulate these currents. You will be in the middle of them. Up close and personal. You can create a field running from one to another. You can create a south pole and then push it into the ground to the surface. Use your compass to see how close you have to get. When you do, then you can see what waving a conductor in it does. Wouldn't hurt to brush up on basic electricity. If you can get it really active, do watch out for low clouds and lightning. You will be making a change in potential in the earth.
Observe how water reacts to this area once it gets started. Water is diamagnetic. It is repulsed by a charge and looks for a place to escape to. If it is charged, I would assume it would move to the opposite charge if close by. You will get the idea after a while.
I noticed the plant thing from Coral Castle and some experiments with neighbor’s plants after putting coral rocks in a ring around them. The leaves need to be above the rocks. I figure it is because it captures some of the telluric current, raising the magnetic potential a tad, which provides a good supply of Ed's little magnets to facilitate growth. The motion, or magnets, or energy acts as a catalyst for molecular change. I can't see anything evil about that, unless someone gets crazed and starts throwing in the neighborhood cats and dogs in an effort to boost the supply. Unnecessary.
But anyhow, that is how you can start the experiment and get a close-up view of managing telluric currents. Give a few days to settle in.
The idea is to use the natural flow to spin things for you. That is one reason you have to go macrosize. Magnets are loops. Tiny, tiny little loops. Takes some doing and geometry to make them into a larger flow. The spinning magnets on a wheel are small. No matter how fast you spin you will have individual loops. Gotta get near light speed to change that. Timing would be hard. You have top account for inductance and reluctance. Very hard to overwhelm the surroundings with small stuff.
